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I was trying to do a projector with a Gameboy color a while back, I think it can be done but most of the principles would be diferent than this project. The gameboy lighting problem as I understand it is that there is no backlight it is a reflective LCD (the reason for this supposedly is that the competition had come out with a backlit version of similar product that became very unpopular because of power consumption). Normally one can make a relective LCD into a transparent LCD by removing the mirror film backing from the LCD "sandwich", however at least with the gameboy color this was not possable as the coating was "painted on the back of the sandwich. I can't decide weather to try removing it with this chemical I have called aptha or to try to figure out how they do reflective LCD based projectors.

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I will probably not acheive better, but the same resolution, but I will be going in through the VGA port. Going through the VGA port will not only give me access to the extra features of the panel but the other benefit is that I will now be able to come from the s-vhs port rather than an RCA port. What about an S-vhs converter you say, well converting s-vhs to RCA you loose the benefits of the s-vhs signal but converting from s-vhs to VGA as I unnderstand it I will retain the benefits of the S-vhs signal.

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This works and has been demonstrated already. The one we know works and well was by Laut Tran (who has neglected to post any updates), the unit he used was the PS1 portable monitor, looked like it was actually by Sony, this is the 5" one with the oval shaped monitor. If you look back he did post where to get it. Be careful not all PS1 monitors are created equally I tried with a 4" version by IntelPlay and found it impossible to move the driver board out of the way.

Check out the complete specs in the PDF. This looks like a very good prospect for the price. Best of all it has contrast control.

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Using the VGA input w/out a scan doubler, the VGA input would expect a frame of 640x480 but recieve a feild of 640x240. I think that this would have to result in a squished image, but could also result in the each feild being shown with a spread.

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Hey Agent Davis, Looks like a great deal, good size, good resolution, capable of composite (interlaced) video only. The contrast ratio concerns me a bit, as I have seen much higher. From the diagram in the PDF spec sheet it appears that the panel connection is a single ribbon, so you shouldn't run into any trouble getting the driver board and backlight out of the way. You may have to rewire the video connection, but this shouldn't be too much trouble.

I can probably get access to a casio handheld. It is 2/3 inches in size and 39,600 pixels. I'm wondering if this would be any good b4 I go ripping it apart. Would the pixels show up too big when projected?

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I plan to try to use a 500W work light, by modifying its safety cage to be a light block, and lense mount for fresnel w/ a big CPU Fan blowing air through vents. I think that this in combination with the built in fan on the commercial LCD panel will be cool enough. W/ everything strapped together, it should be much more portable and the bonus is that the work light has a tripod stand, diffusing lense, and can be adjusted to many angles. I plan to use the upper arm & lenses of an old overhead projector.

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Something to think about anyway. Graham have you done any prototyping on this stuff yet.

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You are of course right about the polerizing film. Must have had a brain laps. But then would it not be true all things being equal.

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Does anyone have a proper explanation of macrovision? Once again I'm posting on opinions alone! I get the brighter/darker/brighter when I tune my VCR to the DVD and watch the VCR channel. I get it in waves of around 2 seconds though.

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I saw a guy on HGTV who had a projector and a screen that he could set up outside and have a “drive-in” movie experience. I figure that if I can set something like this up I can have 30+ people over and show a movie on a big screen at night during the spring, summer, and fall (we live in Atlanta).

So I started daydreaming about putting my computer in my car. I had to laugh at myself, when I thought about having that big bulky thing sitting behind my front seat. I got online to see if anyone else had thought of the idea. I found alot of different sights where people did it. Some guys built some small compact systems equiped with lcd monitors, remote controls, dvd players, gps systems and etc. Some of them are pretty cool. But I still had to laugh at the thought.

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Hi All, I posted awhile back asking about people's experiences using an LCD panel with an overhead projector. I now have a 4000 lumen OHP and an LCD panel (VGA: proxima 846) connected to my dvd player and wanted to let people know the results and get some input. To confirm Mike's previous post the results are pretty impressive. I'm projecting onto a light colored velux blanket with an image about 10 ft across. The pixelation is very minimal- you can see almost no pixels from about 10 ft. The only complaints I have are that the fans are noisy (I think solving this should be easy) and that the brightness of the image does not seem to be stable. I would appreciate any input on the brightness problem. Mike- you mentioned something similar to this with your panel but I'm not sure if is the same problem. What I am seeing is that the brightness of the panel is cycling so that the video image is brighter for about 8 seconds and then quickly fades dimmer for 13 seconds and then brighter for 8 seconds, etc. When the image is bright it looks like the pixels are being saturated (especially when the screen colors are lighter).

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Because an overhead projector has both a fresnel lens to distribute the light from below and a fresnel lens above to distribute the light on its way to the screen, the optics should not be an issue. Besides slight focusing, the only variable will be the size of the picture, which will be determined by the distance from the projector to the screen.

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I wonder have you tried turning your LCD around to project the image backwards and is it brighter when projected in that direction? Are you using a diffuser before the LCD and after the light? If so is it simply a semi-opaque white glass or some sort of Fresnel positioned to cause an interference pattern? I believe the latter would allow better light. I also know that there is a polarizing sheet in the "sandwich" of the LCD, this is why I'm asking about brightness in the reverse set-up.

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Has anyone considered gutting a "palmtheater". You know those handheld dvd/lcd screen combos. I've seen them go for as low as $500 dollars which is much more than a screen i know.

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Well, many projectors are now available for $1800 - 2200. No longer 5k (only high end models).

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Hey guys, First let me apologize for always having bunches of messages in a row on the board. I guess most of you guys are in Europe or posting at night in US, I never see any new posts through the day but there is lots of stuff when I come in in the morning. This is kinda cool for me, but I imagine from your end it looks like I'm trying to hog the board.

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What up Chance, Laut Tran may have done what he said it is just that he left out some important details as to how. I am fully deconstructed and ready to begin construction, but it was a tricky operation and will require the driver board to be mounted at a funky angle on the stage.

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Hey Tim, You've I'm not sure about your formula, because your a bit ahead of me in your Lumen research. However most likely you are right, except for one factor. LCD screens have polerization films in the "sandwich", I know that people talk alot about the unbeleivable loss of light going through the LCD and I think it's because of this. So yes you probably are right on the money, but you would have to figure in this percentage of light loss somehow. I'm not sure what the light loss is?

I've been been reading the board for about two months and have decided to try to build. Has anyone actually tried to use a metal halide lamp? I read through some of the sites posted and it seems that some people have had limited experimentation, but I didn't find anything definitive.

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I plan to use th 7" Redant monitor to build a panel and I think at this point I will simply purchase an OHP, the one I want is extremely portable and runs around $220 so my projected cost for this one is $450. But it will work as soon as I make the panel w/ my current OHP so you could say I'll be able to watch it for $200. I love upgrading and improving things as I go so I am also looking at a PIP box for $200 that I will add to one of my projectors depending on resolution.

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Progressive scan, as I understand it is what we are acheiving with the VGA box (In Theory). So progressive scan should cover it for you but only for DVDs. The thing to understand is that you must have a VGA capable monitor to get the true bennefits of this, a regular TV isn't capable of showing you NON-interlaced video.

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I have ordered a plan-convex lens from Surplus Shack that should be here any day now. It has a longer focal length than any of my other lenses, so maybe that will help. I think by using a longer focal length lens, I may be able to "gather" more of the image to "send" to the Fujinon lens assemly.

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Scan doublers are only really useful for use with CRT projectors as these physically miss every other line. I don't think we could claim that doubling the lines prior to the signal going to the LCD's driver will give twice the resolution - they would be scaled to fit anyway.

According to the research I've been doing, if we could find an 800x600 LCD with a VGA input and add a scan doubler we could do this project w/ HDTV QUALITY IMAGE. However I estimate the total cost of doing it with an overhead projector to be around $350-$400, but succsesful, it would be able to create an image up to 9 or 10 feet wide at HDTV resolution. Compared to the upwards of $5,000 price of anything even comparable I think it would be worth it.

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I am really happy about the way this board is rolling along. I wish I could take more of a lead in the documentation of an actual unit, but with the holidays and everything going on at home it's not coming together as quickly as I would like.

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On the subject of the macrovision cleaned signal, I mentioned in last post, it occurs to me that the signal is probably cleaned of the macrovision, but the clean signal is VGA, so it would have to be again converted to interaced video to allow copying by VHS or DVDR. I do have a VGA pass through on the commercial LCD Panel and may at some point play with this idea, however I think there are other products out there for this purpose that would work better. Sorry for the side tracks but they can be very interesting.

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I have obtained a brand new NEC Laptop case with the LCD. Has anybody found a way to use a laptop LCD as the video source for this project?

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I'm not entirely certain I understand the way they are rating these new monitors but I think they are using the same pixel space for both feilds of each frame which would mean that to reproduce an NTSC picture (640x480) without a noticeable loss of resolution, you would only need 640x240 resolution on the monitor. I may be way off on this, but I haven't had a lot of luck researching it.

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Somebody said it can be done with a portable TV and slide projector parts, I must concur it works but lousy resoulution. In fact I posted some live links a while back and one was to a sight that did it the same way.

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What did completely solve the problem was a Sima Color Corrector I purchased from Fry's. It was not cheap ($150 but I found them online for $100) so I'll probably end up returning it and seeing if I can't find another solution. The picture is really amazing using this!

I am going to buy some 400 speed film and see if I can't get you guys some pictures of the video image. It is really unbeleivable with a good signal (better than rear screen, images I've seen at the stores).

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Also, I am not the most technically adept person in the world, so please be extra gentle. I have recently (almost) finished building myself the world’s ugliest Mame Cabinet so I figured I might step up and take on a new challenge.

Hey Tony, The VGA signal is non-interlaced, so if you go in through the VGA port you need to 1st convert your signal from composite video (or component or S-VHS or RGB) to VGA. To accomplish this you need a scan doubler or a scaler (scalers are more expensive, but work differently and generally allow a higher resolution conversion, if you have XGA or better this would probably be worth it). Some scan doublers have been listed on this page and even where to get them.

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I have not tested yet, but it seems to me that the new signal generated at output of device when border is on, could be considered cleaned of macrovision. I will have to test but this may allow duplication of protected tapes & DVDs. The effects are a little weird and I can't think of any really good use for them yet (negative image, all red, all green, all blue, limited colors and normal) but I will, its kinda like those shortwave radio guys say the more nobs and buttons I can fiddle with the better.

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I then plan to mount all of it in a custom case. Im not even going to try to make it compact all im looking for now is quality. The final project will probably be pretty big.

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Ravin, I think there may be a few lenses with mounts, but I believe you're right, in that most of the lenses don't have mounts. I've been using whatever is available :). Actually, I do a lot of remodelling work in my spare time and had a bunch of bar clamps from different projects. If you're not familiar with them, they are cushioned clamps that ride on a flat bar. The identifying feature is a trigger type handle for convenient clamping and release. You've probably seen them before. I'm using these in the interim until I make an enclosure. The don't stand up on their own, but it's not hard to make a stand for the clamps. I'm probably going to buy a few band clamps, considering that I bought a few more lenses (and the bar clamps look a bit strange). A band clamp is basically a nylon strap for holding an object and a mount used to connect the strap to a surface. Band clamps are made to hold round or oddly shaped objects.

Check this out; My undertsanding is that the signal itself is interlaced or non-interlaced, combining this with your understanding that LCDs address all pixcells at once, if the signal is interlaced (lets call "1,3,5,7" feild a & "2,4,6,8" feild b) the first full image received by the LCD is feild a (640x240 for NTSC). FORGET THE VGA CAPABLE MONITOR FOR THE MOMENT. Therefore an NTSC signal can be displayed on a 640x240 TFT LCD monitor with no loss of resolution.

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Thanks for getting my brain going this morning Graham. Knowledge comes from discussion & debate, and I find your opinions and comments of great value.

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This means that if your signal breaks up from interference or something the detector begins to guess what signal it is supposed to be looking for, and forgets all your settings. This also occurs when manually swithing from S-VHS input to RCA input, and I assume VGA input to (I have not hooked the thing up to a computor yet).

Since your obviously working with a good 3D program that probably includes animation capabilities. I'd like to propose a challenge. How about putting lights that simulate the strength, color temp, and intensity & beam angle of your lights and doing another ray tracing showing the growth of the beam through simulated lenses. If you can accomplish that, how about putting a semi-transparent appropriately sized running video clip where the LCD goes and rendering an animation which shows the beam path and the final image size at different distances. I know this sounds like a lot, but if you're into 3D modeling and animation as much as I was when I had the opportunity to do it at work, I think you'll probably quite enjoy the project. I used to use Strata Studio Pro Blitz, and worked a bit with the beta and first versions of Bryce.

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That one you have seems like its got some pretty good specs. I hope I can get something of that quality.

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I went to buy my VGA converter planning to purchase the "Cheese Box" & changed my mind at the last minute and purchased one for ten dollars more, it has video processing controls (Bright, Contrast, Tint{NTSC}) and effects. I'll let you guys know more after it arrives.

The darn tri-pod on the screen requires it to be out from the wall about 3 feet though, reducing my image size. I plan to either remove the tri-pod or find a way to re-mount the screen to it.

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This is an optical magnification of a 640x480 (NTSC standard resolution) LCD Panel, as such pixels do become visible. The commercial one is projecting a 100" image from about 15' foot distance starting with a 8 3/4" diagonal LCD panel I have measured the pixcels on screen at 1/16" square. When sharply focused this effect is somewhat degrading to the image however, if the Projector is taken slightly out of focus we acheive an effect similar to "anti-aliasing" which smooths the image and makes it look great.

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Hey Jack, Your image size @ a given distance, depends on; chosen optic set-up & size of original (LCD Screen dimensions). You decide which comes first, the chicken or the egg.

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Somebody pointed out to me that with a brighter light source, I could turn down my bright and contrast a bit and get truer color reproduction. Also I've been interested in making the whole unit more portable. So my new plan is to build a new projection unit for my commercial LCD panel and add scan doubler and glass bead impregnated screen at 60" x 80". I will build in such a way as to use this unit for the homemade LCD panel, when ready to build. Also I have a possability of getting ahold of a multiplexer pretty cheap if I do I will be experimenting with this as well. The multiplexer will #1- Allow me to use 2 recivers or video sources for PIP display #2 allow me to split screen and display up to 4 video sources at once. I'm not sure what the resolution will be like thru it though, it is designed for a CCTV system.

I think I've come up with a solution to the LCD overheating and burning out because of the bulb. I think the projector needs to be designed like those Energy Efficient windows that use two panes of glass with air sandwiched between the two. How about if you made a separate box for the bulb with a piece of glass to let the light through. Make another box holding the LCD panel and other electronics. Instead of joining the two pieces together, create a small 'One Inch Hallway' between them. You can cool the box which houses the bulb as well as the 'hallway'. Is this getting more complicated than it needs to be. I just figure this will allow us to use the higher wattage bulbs without worry of heat. It will increase the size of the projector but I don't really care how compact it is.

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A) am I to assume that everybody is removing the backing of the LCD panels they accquire and shining very powerful lights thru them? LCD panels have backlight source already (hence that's how we can see them) right?

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Jazz, I don't think the vertical resolution is adequate. Considering you're projecting 4' diagonally, geometry shows that your screen will be (3 * (4/5) ) feet or 28/8 inches tall. This means that your pixels will be about 1/8th of an inch tall.

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Have you had any thoughts on the light source? I was thinking an array of 4 12 volt 100watt halogen spotlights would give a good output, or maybe the same layout of car headlights.

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There are alot of 5" AUTOMOBILE TFT LCD TV MONITORS on Ebay. They sell for about $120 and have a resolution of 640x224. Are these not good enough if I only want to project a picture about 4' across?

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Hello, I stumbled across the homemade LCD projector project in the process of researching my own project. It's very interesting and I may have to try to make one of these. Although this is not quite related to my project you all may be able to help me with some questions I have about LCD projectors.

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Here is a quick primer on projection technology. Basically, your light source shoots out a measure of light (lumens). This light passes through a LCD where some is stopped and some move on. They then hit a screen where they are (hopefully) distributed evenly over the area of your image. For each square foot a certain amount of them bounce off of the image and back to your eyes. If the amount coming back to your eyes is enough greater than the ambient light then you will get a good picture.

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Unfortuantely, the Dreamcast VGA box only changes the hz to 31, it does not double the lines. There is another product out there called a VGA BOX, but I'm not sure it doubles lines either. I found a REVEAL TV Tuner card that can hadle NTSC input, but I don't know anything about it, other than it is $13 on eBay.

Hey, that dude has a good idea with the game gear lcd. So, I opened up my VERY, VERY OLD game gear. Resolution is poor on the lcd, but it works for me as a starting project. Anyway, I opened it up, and I realized that I have no idea how to hook up video to the lcd. Anyone that is a specialist on hooking up video to a lcd that is not meant to, I really need your help.

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My question is: What LCD's of this size are compatible with this project? In other words, which ones have driver boards that can be easily moved out of the way?

I beleive the light dark effect is the fault of the on board scan doubler in my monitor being somehow slightly out of sync. We must remember that these monitors and even some of the LCD panels w/ video input were designed probably, with video thrown in as an added and 2ndary type feature. They probably use cheap scan doublers.

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Try doing a search for spec sheets for the model you are curious about. They usually include temperature ranges for operation. For example, the AND-TFT-25EN LCD has an operating temp of -10 to +60 degrees Celsius.

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Hey Graham, I FOUND IT AGAIN. I found the seven inch wide screen again, but I found it in only 2 places on the web, and the problem is they both list the resolution differently. One sight says it is 480 by 234 and the other says it is 1440 by 234, I don't know what the deal is.

BTW- Agent Davis- this effect happens on all legal macrovision protected dvds (most major studios use it). It is not off of a dvd copy. Apparently this stuff is causing all sorts of annoying problems for people using lcd projection systems.

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They aren't quite as efficient as MH, but the price is nice. One thing to watch out for is phosphor coatings on these bulbs.

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Macrovision is the effect of an image on screen getting lighter and darker in waves of a few seconds. I believe the time this waves takes differs between NTSC and PAL.

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I just wanted to pass a link on. I borrowed one of these from work, and I watched Extreme Days video 104 inches diagonal, perfect clarity, even with the lights on, and on a white stucko wall. It quotes 300 inches, and I don'r doubt it for a second.

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I have discovered a small flaw in my previous thinking that may have caused some confusion in earlier posts. I have been mentioning 4:3, 16:9 and letterbox aspect ratios, apparently 16:9 is letterbox and HDTV aspect. The aspect that lies between 16:9 and 4:3 is, I beleive what they call anamorphic which I think is 1:1/78:1 (this aspect is supposed to lend itself well to both the 4:3 and 16:9 monitors).

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Also I have made one more interesting observation about the commercial LCD panel I'm currently using. Conventional 3D (cardboard/celophane glasses) does not work well through an LCD projector. I believe after having thought about it for a while, that no LCD projector could.

Well I was going to go over how to get your best image too, but this has gotten so long. Why don't we wait and discuss that later.

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There are so many randoms tricks & tweaks available on internet which are confusing and most of the users get confused which one to read and follow. We’ve read almost all those tweaks and applied and tested on our system to see which one is working. We compared the test results on different system and found some of them are always working on any type of internet connection. So instead of putting all those randomly we are breaking it down to some easy steps to follow.

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THANKS FOR GIVING UP TIME TO READ/POST HERE. IT MAY TAKE A WHILE FOR OTHERS TO MIGRATE OVER TO THIS TOPIC. LETS ALL BE PATIENT AND UNDERSTANDING. I WILL BE POSTING FROM TIME TO TIME ON THE 100" TV BOARD. I LIKE TO WATCH COMMENTS FROM OTHERS OVER THERE, BECAUSE IT MAY SPAWN AN IDEA FOR THIS PROJECT. ALSO IT IS KINDA COOL HELPING OTHERS WHO HAVE JUST STUMBLED UPON THE 100" TV IDEA. WE ALL KNOW HOW MUCH TIME IT TAKES TO READ THROUGH ALL THE PREVIOUS POSTINGS, JUST TO MAKE SURE SOMEONE DIDN'T COME UP WITH A PRIZE WINNING IDEA TWO MONTHS AGO. A LOT OF BUSINESSES DEPEND ON WORD OF MOUTH ADVERTISEMENT TO PROMOTE A PRODUCT OR AN IDEA. LETS GET PEOPLE TALKING AND THINKING, AND OTHERS WILL WANT TO SEE WHAT THIS IDEA IS ALL ABOUT. I DON'T WANT TO SCARE OTHERS OFF BECAUSE THEY CANNOT UNDERSTAND SOME OF THE CONCEPTS BEING POSTED HERE.

Well it was up and running, I first made it out of cardboard to test it, now I'm building it out of wood. The bulbs I use are 60watt they are made by Philips and put out about 1000 lumens each. As for the screen I just the brightens down the bulbs are bright to over light the backlit. What kind of screen did you use? Mine screen was a third- party screen and the backlight was not that bright, if you go to the walmart's website you will find a screen that cost 119/99, but mine cost 99/99 and it's a differnt brand. You may have a brighter backlit than me. I don't get a doubling effect the only problem I have is part of the lense showing in the lower right side of the image but is really small. My picture isn't super bright but it's bright enough so I can have a small lamp on and still see good enough.

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I placed the whole work light right inside the OHP. I put my commercial LCD panel on it and projected a couple of times for a couple minutes each so as not to overheat.

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The LCD projectors come out a great deal closer to buying the real thing, can be made much more powerful, and offer more flexibility. The simplest route is to turn your LCD into a projection panel and put it on an OHP (overhead projector), this would also be your safest route.

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Well the Commercial LCD Panel has Crapped Out! I baught film, I set up, I started to think of good DVD seens to pause & photograph, and The LCD Panel seems to have lost all vertical hold. I have tried everything I can think of to troubleshoot the thing, damned if I know whats wrong. So this means I will have to accelorate my project a bit, cause I can't live without big screen anymore.

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This isn't to say that other reviews won't be of comparable importance-indeed, all product reviews will be run as if a company's future sales count on it, but the Ecrix VXA review is the first and may be something of a model for future reviews. At the risk of giving the wrong impression, let me make it clear that my goal in reviewing products for Computer Technology Review has little to do with helping or hurting a company's sales. The goal is not to enhance or reduce my reputation as a reviewer. My primary goal in writing reviews is the same today as it was nearly two decades ago when I wrote my first review -to give an honest, balanced evaluation that can be used by the reader to make an educated decision whether to buy or use a reviewed product or not.

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Another issue I am dealing with is finding a way to condense the 8/5" diameter LCD image into a 4" or smaller lens for projection. OHP's accomplish this using a fresnel before the LCD to direct (condense) the rays to the head lens/mirror, but I have had no success trying this with a page magnifier fresnel. As it stands, I can only project about half of the image clearly.

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Mike, you're correct on the stereo-mini to dual RCA's for the Sony 5" PS1 mon. To the man looking for lens options, check out surplusshed.com. Another person at some point mentioned the Delta 20 lens they offer (he was happy with it as I recall), and I purchased the Fujinon lens. I chose it over the Delta because the lens is a little larger and thus will pass more light. Very short focal length, so it has to be very close to the LCD, but produces a very sharp picture. Worth the price just to play with. Only downside in using with the Sony PS1 mon is that since the lens is actually for rear projection, the image is backwards for front proj. Which brings up a question I don't know the answer to: is there any difference at all in direction on an LCD? I'm shooting around 3000 lumens through the Sony LCD backwards (to correct the image) and getting a far less bright picture than I had with the stock backlight. Took out the two thin tinted sheets that I assume helped diffuse the light, left in the thicker glass piece with the white dots on it, haven't tried it without it. Flipped the LCD and put back in the white plastic casing for support.

In order to rule out many of the issues that may have produced poor performance, I made a number of changes. I replaced the Adaptec 2940U2W with a new 2940U2W adapter. Next, I made a clean install of Windows 98 Version 2 to a new directory on a Seagate Cheetah hard drive. I installed a minimum of drivers and applications, hoping that a leaner installation will reduce the overhead required to support other applications that run in the background.

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I hope to see you all after the storm. If the membership is not too expensive, I will probably stick around. If the membership is outrageous, I'm history. It pisses me off to get involved in something great and have someone pull the plug for financial gain. Write down email addresses now if you have to. Have a great day.

This is a memory leak by the way, using MemTurbo won't help all that much really

I have been trying to figure a way to take the spare lamp socket from unit and hook up as second light w/ second fan, in same box. Mine is rated at 4000 Lumens, but I beleive with twice the light I could turn down the bright and contrast and get better color.

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Chance, If I were you I'd get that CRT projector, have you thaught of replacing the bad CRTs, professional CRT projectors really work great and are verey expensive. It would at least have 3 great lenses.

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Sorry for not posting any new pics on my site of the screen and image, I just threw it all together in the den last night. I will however get some pics of the setup and the screen and post them hopefully this weekend.

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Has anyone seen one of these in the flesh? I'd imagine the bulb life is limited (but I bet they're cheap).

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It gives no indication of education or practical knowledge, and I don't even believe it should be used as an indicator of intelegence. You might be interested to know that I droped out of school in the eleventh grade to support my wife and child. I moved on to get a GED and have reached management levels in 4 blue colar trades and 3 white colar trades since. I have studied philosophy, psycology, culture, religion & poetry for about 17 years now. And I have only become interested in physics in the last 8 months. All that I know of Optics has come from reading Newtons optics and experimenting with this stuff. All that I have learned of magnateics, electromagnetics, electrostatics, and vortex theory I have learned through research and experimentation in the last 8 months. I have made practical real world demonstrations of things thought imposible already. As I have said before I am not a scientist and have no desire to be, I am an artist attempting to create real world effects no one has seen before, and will.

We didn't think of using a longer center bolt and spacers underneath, we did go ahead and make a spacer frame out of 1 inch square tubing, to set the motor base up an inch off the deck. I welded the square tubing at the corners and drilled holes to match the bolt pattern on the motor and the deck. Everything else went right into place and the mower is now back in service with a brand new B&S engine. It started right up and needed no adjustments in order to operate perfectly. The only significant difference was in the starter solenoid. The Generac starter was equipped with a integral solenoid and with the B&S engine I had to mount a separate starter relay on the chassis. I rerouted a few wires but maintained all the safety switches. If I remember correctly the B&S engine didn't have a low oil pressure delay switch, so those wires were just not used. It took a lot of thought to be sure and get the wiring right but we did not have to buy a new harness.

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The electronic circuit responsible for the macrovision effect is called the AGC (automatic gain control). This circuit is found in almost all VCRs but almost no TVs. Its responsibility is to make light scenes darker, and dark scenes lighter - thus compensating for the degrading effects of recording to VHS. The AGC is a useful circuit on its own.

I think it's important to test with at least one data set that really challenges the drive. I've seen reviews that were done using data sets as small as 2GB or 3GB, recorded over and over and over again. Except for small desktop applications, I doubt the value of testing drive performance with such small data sets. Statistics for backing up 300GB over a 24-hour test period may be of little value if the test was for backing up a 3GB test set 100 times. Why not back up a 100MB set 3000 times? Although running a drive over a 24-hour period may be useful to determine whether a drive will fail after so few hours, I don't think there's a lot of real world value to be gained from such tests. Backing up multiple drives with data sets ranging in size from a few hundred megabytes up to more than a dozen gigabytes seems a lot more real world to me. Let me know what you think ([email protected]). During initial testing, backup speeds fluctuated wildly and somewhat unpredictably, ranging from a high of about 9GB/hour to less than 700MB/hr. Clearly, something strange was happening.

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Agent Davis, If you read lower down Myself and Mike came to the conclusion that the vertical resolution was compressed into half the number of lines. A CRT television will scan lines 1,3,5,7,etc and then 2,4,6,8 - we summised that the lcd must be 'ignoring' the second scan and therefore halving the number of vertical pixels required.

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Port forwarding is another important aspect you need to keep in mind to gain maximum download speed. Port forwarding means to dedicate a port address for downloading any data without interruption. In this case we are dedicated a port for bittorrent downloads.

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On a similar subject, there's a 32" Philips widescreen TV with 100HZ screen and what they call - "Natural Motion". This is a very clever bit of circuitry that looks at two frames of video and fills in the gap with more frames that it guesses to bring it up to 100HZ. The effect is fantastic for movies with loads of motion (eg. Star Wars) and would be the perfect partner to the LCD Projector!

Now don't get me wrong, I am not trying to brag here. I am just trying to let everyone know that this project is more than worth the wait. The unit I have doesn't have to be used with an overhead projector, it is self contained. I can't wait to build my own homemade unit. I will use the homemade one in my garage with the garage door open. I saw a commercial where a guy takes a date to his house and sits with her in his car in his driveway and watches his big screen TV, which has been placed in the front part of his garage. I want to do the same idea, only have the neighbors drive by while I am seated on my lawn chair, in my driveway, watching the newest DVD release on my homemade LCD projector. I'll have it projected on the fron wall of my garage so eweryone who walks or dives by will see it. What a rush. Gotta go. Hey Mike, in what city and state do you reside? Just curious, we could be neighbors.

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Hey Tim, Let me have some info on this "Cyclops" when you get would you. Sounds really cool, I wonder if it is just for "target shooting" w/ games or pointing in presentations, or do you suppose you could use it as an active cursor sort of replacing the mouse with the laser pointer.

It's overkill, but it is still interesting. I'm just curious if people have actually tried the metal halide or not.

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The work light is going to be one of about 6 I was looking at, at home depot, runs around $50. The ones I saw were 500 watt halogen tubes in rectangular housing and I think they should work pretty good if the light can be dispersed well enough before the LCD, may end up with bright bar across middle and dim upper and lower edges.

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Is anyone using computer dvd on their project? I'm thinking of just adding a dvd drive to my computer and going this route. Is there software out there that can help to acheive some of the things that we need? It would be nice if there were/is software that would/does allow us to improve the picture quality, like removing macrovision and things like this. I'm excited about the possibilities of using the versatility of a computer. I have a room in which the walls are white and on one side sits my computer and the other side I could project my large picture on. Let me know your comments on computer dvd.

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I'm still coming up to speed on how this whole process works, but I did notice that there's a lot of concern over the amount of heat produced by any lamp capable of projecting a decent image. I suspect many of you have seen the new ultra bright LED flashlights that are coming into common use. These LEDs are available alone for under $3/00 apiece, and are impressively bright without producing noticable heat.

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The light out put seemed slightly less than the out put from my 82V 360W OHP. Thge lense configuration is different and seems lower poer than my good OHP.

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This doesn't look as bad as it sounds either, and would make sure we're utilising the whole screen. I wonder how the panel knows you're sending a 16:9 image instead of a 4:3 one?

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